The war of words continues surrounding the price of beer. Roger Protz, in the Good Beer Guide, continues to remind us to go to the Supermarket to buy beer, because it's cheaper.
Tesco have just announced a profit rise and the prospect of new jobs being created. So it might be a brave person, with the perceived economic situation as it is, to criticise the supermarkets.

But there are more beautiful things in life than cheap, low quality, supermarket beer. The boss of Scottish and Newcastle said in The Morning Advertiser recently "Don't get hung up on the gap between on and off-trade prices" and if you look the difference between quality bottles ales in the off trade and a pint of the same beer in a pub there is a significantly smaller margin.
Tesco's - Hobgoblin - £1.47, Willies - £1.67, Bombardier - £1.52, Morrissey Fox - £1.89. But I never got a clean glass, there was nowhere to sit, there was no friendly chat from the staff and I'm guessing I would not have been made to feel welcome if I'd tried to drink them there. But seriously, although I enjoyed every bottle later, I did find them somewhat overgassed, except perhaps the Hobgoblin, compared to good hand-pulled ale. The Morrissey Fox probably comes from the smallest brewery - hence the highest price.
There is a new, exciting licence trade out there. It is suffering the inertia of history, a history that we all reminisce about. But we cannot afford to allow this nostalgia to kill the industry completely.
Yes, the smoking ban has also kicked the licensed trade sideways. But it is noticeable that many of the higher quality Inns in our area banned smoking months or even years before the Government. There is a realisation that there is a nicer, kinder, more discerning group of customers out there. The aforementioned Mr Protz has reneged on his previous opinion on the smoking ban and is now saying that it is damaging the pub industry so much that it should never have happened. Perhaps he is right and for sure there are a lot of licensees out there that are finding times very, very tough indeed.
Food is becoming the thing that keeps an establishment alive. For most establishments it is not a question of whether to do food or not but exactly what food to do. The type of food offered will mark out the biggest difference for most pubs. It is perhaps a shame that the "Gastro" pub is being singled out as part of the death nail for British Pubs. We could argue about what the term really means and it means different things to different people. Independent industry analysis shows that the higher quality establishments are fairing a little better due to the inherent move away from the high volume market.
This is the crux, in our view, of the solution for the licensed trade. The trade is moving away, largely due to customer choice, from the low end quantity market and into a better, more refined version. Less and less people are just nipping out for a couple of pints or popping in for one on the way home. Many customers want more than just the regular pub fare to fill them up. Many hard working people save their money to treat themselves once a week and they are looking for quality. Many might go out for a meal and a few drinks because it's a birthday, anniversary, kids got good exam results, Mum has been away on business, we're on holiday, we've worked hard and we deserve it.
There is a hardcore of customers that hark after the good old days of cheap beer, smelly sticky carpets, chicken in a basket and smoky rooms. Life on Mars shows a window into how it was. The days of Gene Hunt have long gone and even though we like to look back on it, we're thankful that society has moved on. Industry statistics show that it is the old fashioned boozer that is the style of pub that is failing. These same statistics show that, even if we don't like it, quality is what succeeds. The pub industry is going through painful realignment in the same way as the economy.
Real Ale is the product that bridges between history and quality in the modern pub. Whatever the food offering, providing quality Real Ale alongside food will ensure a discerning audience. Worrying about the quantity of beer that is sold, or the total number of pubs that exist is worrying about an eventuality. The Real Ale community is missing a trick in not embracing the more quality dining establishments and therefore vying for a place alongside fine wines - we for one believe that this is the future for a proportion of pubs.
Labels: real ale